If you’re trying to keep it honest, the cleanest line is: (1) documented government issue/contract, (2) documented unit purchase, (3) culturally associated (common private purchase among that community).
Documented issue examples that are well sourced:
- British Ministry of Defence “W10” and “6B/” patterns: the broad “Dirty Dozen” (WWII British Army) and later RAF/Army general service watches. These weren’t a single unit thing; they’re a state procurement story, but you’ll see them tied to British Army and RAF service widely.
- U.S. MIL-W-3818 and later MIL-W-46374: general-purpose field watches issued across the services, again not unit-specific, but common in Vietnam-era and later.
- NATO stock number (NSN) watches: Cold War onward, many countries procured standardized items under NSN systems, which makes “unit association” more about who actually used them.
More unit-linked (often via mission profile):
- Combat diver communities: various navies’ clearance divers and frogmen historically gravitated to robust dive watches. Some of the most famous associations (e.g., certain Rolex and Blancpain models) are tied to procurement decisions or documented use among naval special operations in the Cold War era, but you have to be careful because marketing has exaggerated some claims.
- Aircrew: pilot chronographs and navigation watches were commonly worn in air forces; the “unit” is less a battalion name and more the aircrew role. WWII and early Cold War documentation is stronger (A-11 type field watches, later flight-qualified chronographs).
If you want a starting bibliography: Konrad Knirim’s works on military timepieces, plus primary references like MoD issue lists and U.S. MIL-SPEC documents (MIL-W-3818, MIL-W-46374) help separate myth from contract reality.